Article Summary. Part 1. Evaluate whether the tree is healthy enough to move. If your tree is unhealthy, it's more likely to die from shock while being replanted. If your tree is dehydrated or diseased, try to treat its ailment as much as possible before moving it. Large trees should be replanted by a landscape contractor or nursery professional. Wait until the tree's dormant season to replant it. The best time to replant a tree is in late fall or winter, when the tree is dormant and less likely to experience trauma.
If your tree is healthy and does not immediately need replanting, keep it in its original location until its dormant season. Remove the tree from the ground. Using a shovel, remove the topsoil surrounding the roots nearest to the tree's base. These roots will form the tree's root ball, and you will transplant it with the tree trunk. Dig underneath the root ball and pull the tree up and out of the ground.
Dig up 10—12 inches 25—30 cm of root ball for every 1 inch 2. Water the soil 24 hours before you remove the tree to make digging it out easier. Wrap the tree's root ball in burlap. Using a small shovel, dig away all soil clumps from the root ball. Wrap the entire ball in untreated natural burlap, and stitch it tightly around the tree with an upholstery needle and untreated natural twine. Keep the root ball intact while you move the tree.
As you transport the tree to its new location, grab it by the base of the trunk. Grip it above the root ball to prevent breaking the roots. If the tree is too heavy for you to carry, put it in a cart or wheelbarrow. Replant the tree immediately after removing it. If possible, replant the tree the same day that you removed it from the ground. Your tree is less likely to sustain shock and reject its new climate if you put it back into the soil immediately.
Part 2. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Make sure the new location suits your tree's needs.
If your tree was thriving in its old location, you should choose a place with the same soil type, weather conditions, and shade levels as the last hole. Research what conditions your tree does best in if you are removing the tree to improve its health. Dig a hole approximately the same depth as the tree's old hole.
If the hole is too deep, water is more likely to pool in the hole when you water your tree and cause root rot. You should dig the hole, however, about 2—3 inches 5. Remove the burlap wrapping from the root ball. Plating your tree with the burlap wrapping intact can restrict oxygen to the roots.
This, in turn, can cause girdling which will eventually kill the tree. To avoid this, completely remove the burlap wrapping before replanting your tree in the new hole. Place the tree carefully into the hole. To avoid damaging the tree, do not drop it into the hole. Replanting is often traumatic for trees, and they need to be positioned gently into the hole.
Lower it into the hole and adjust it so the trunk stays upright. Use your shovel to make sure the ground is level. Place your shovel handle on the ground and across the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with the top of the hole. If the root ball is too deep into the ground, remove it and shovel some dirt back into the hole until the root ball is level. Fill the hole with topsoil. Your replanted tree will need plenty of organic matter and nutrients to adapt to its new location.
Purchase topsoil, compost, or a blend of the two from a plant nursery. Shovel the topsoil in around the tree's roots until you fill the hole to the top. Part 3. Add a 2—3 inches 5. Apply the mulch in a ring a few inches centimeters away from the trunk. Once the tree appears ready to transplant and the timing is right, choose and prep the new site, water the tree, and dig around and under the root ball. Once the tree is ready for its new home, follow recommendations for planting an established tree from a trusted source.
Choose a new location carefully. Make sure the new spot has sufficient space for the tree to grow, as well as proper soil, light, and water conditions. Every type of tree has different requirements, so take the time to do your research. After all, poor conditions might be the reason the tree needed a new home in the first place.
If planning to move a tree in fall, water as needed during summer dry spells to keep the roots healthy. Tree roots cut in fall for a spring move might need some water during especially dry winters. Moist soil is easier to dig and helps keep the root ball cohesive. Make sure that soil receives moisture around the entire circle of the trench.
Take care to save the dug-up soil, separating the topsoil from the subsoil. Water the hole well to infuse some extra moisture into the soil, which will help hold the root ball together. Using a shovel, remove the topsoil near the trunk and roots of the tree.
Then start digging around the tree with a sharp, flat spade about 6 inches further out than the pruned roots. Digging several inches past the trench ensures that you include most if not all of the new feeder roots that will help the tree adjust to its new location. Dig at least 1 or 2 feet down to be sure the shovel can get under the root ball.
If you come across any older, stubborn roots in the trench path that were missed months ago, cut them with pruning shears or—in the case of larger roots—loppers. After digging all the way around the circumference of the tree, start to dig under the tree to sever the roots beneath. Remember to leave the diameter of the root ball intact. If a tree trunk is 2 inches in diameter, then dig a little more than 2 feet down in order to get the full root ball.
Gently rocking the root ball within the hole can help determine whether any roots undetected before remain attached. Carefully remove loose soil from around the root ball.
Once the tree is completely free of the ground in the hole, place a sheet of natural burlap in the hole and coax the tree roots over it. Heavier root balls might need to be gently rolled out of the hole and onto the burlap.
Be sure the burlap will cover the entire root ball. Lift the tree from the ground with the burlap never by the trunk to prevent breakage. Having another person on hand to help contain the tree roots in the burlap and lift the tree from the ground will help immensely.
Secure the burlap together with twine to keep the soil together, and carry the tree to its new position. You can lift the burlap onto cardboard or a sturdy cart if easier. Set the tree into the fresh hole, making sure that the base of the trunk is level with the ground.
Often, the tree crown and trunk area shows a color change to indicate the soil level in its previous location. Assuming the tree was healthy and not planted too deep or high, this might be a helpful guide.
Add any soil necessary to achieve the proper height. Once the tree is set in the hole, remove the burlap and twine. Fill the ground around the tree with soil from the dug hole, making sure to place the subsoil in the bottom of the hole and the topsoil on top. Tamp the soil down gently as you go. Water thoroughly, all the way out to the edge of the hole site.
Then add 2 to 3 inches of mulch around the base of the tree, being careful not to push it up onto the trunk. The mulch helps to promote adequate moisture levels and temperature as the tree becomes used to its new home.. Also, mark the trunk where it meets the soil. When replanting, make sure you plant so that this mark is an inch above the soil line of the planting hole. The plant is now ready to be transplanted. Shrubs less than 3 feet tall and deciduous trees less than an inch in trunk diameter measured 6 inches above the ground may be moved bareroot.
You can more easily handle a larger root system with the bareroot method than if you dig a plant with a ball of soil around the roots.
Bareroot plants should be planted while they are dormant. Trees greater than an inch in trunk diameter measured 6 inches off the ground and all broadleaf and narrowleaf evergreens should be moved with the soil attached. Ball sizes should always be large enough in diameter and depth to encompass enough of the fibrous and feeding root system to provide for the full recovery of the plant.
Trees that are difficult to move beech, hickory, sweet gum, hornbeam, sassafras, tupelo, walnut and white oak need larger root balls than trees that are easy to transplant. Trees growing in loose, well-drained soil, such as a sandy soil, will have more extensive or spreading root systems than trees growing in a hard, poorly drained soil such as tight clay. The digging operation consists of digging a trench around the plant and removing the soil.
The trench should be dug far enough from the plant to preserve a large proportion of the fibrous roots and deep enough to extend below the level of the lateral roots see tables. If you have root pruned, this trench should be outside the root pruning trench. Before starting to dig, remove loose soil above the roots.
Make a circle around the plant about 12 inches beyond the anticipated diameter of the finished root ball. Cut the roots with a sharp spade, inserting the spade at the marked circle with the backside of the spade facing the plant. Be sure the spade is sharp so the cuts will heal rapidly. Next, dig a trench outside and adjacent to the marked circle. Plants With Soil Attached: For trees to be moved with the soil attached, trim the ball to the proper size and shape with the spade, keeping the backside of the spade toward the plant.
Round off the trimmed ball at the top and taper it inward toward the base. You can avoid loosening the soil around the roots by cutting large roots with hand or lopping shears and small roots with a sharp spade.
Next, undercut the ball of soil at an angle of about 45 degrees to loosen the ball from the soil beneath and sever any remaining roots. To prevent drying, cracking and crumbling of soil, wrap the ball tightly with burlap balled-and-burlapped. Balls up to 15 inches in diameter can be completely covered with one piece of burlap.
Tip the ball to the side and place a piece of rolled burlap under half of the ball. Then tip the ball in the opposite direction and pull the burlap under the other half.
Pull the burlap up around the ball and tie diagonal corners together at the top. Secure loose burlap around the base of the trunk with twine, and support the ball by wrapping twine around and under the burlapped ball. You can also protect the root system by placing the soil ball in a pot balled-and-potted rather than burlapping.
Balls of soil are heavy and can be difficult to move. A ball of soil 15 inches in diameter and 15 inches deep may weigh pounds or more. Lift a plant with a small ball of soil out of the hole by placing a piece of burlap under the ball and lifting by the four corners of the burlap. Consider hiring a professional arborist or landscape manager to move balls of soil weighing several hundred pounds. They are familiar with the procedures of moving such large balls. Bareroot Plants: For bareroot transplanting, after digging the trench, wash the soil off the lateral roots with water.
This minimizes root injury during soil removal. This helps the tree recover more rapidly. When the lateral roots are free of soil, tip the tree to one side to remove the soil under the plant. This should be done gradually to avoid straining or breaking the roots and loosening the bark near the base of the trunk.
Cut any taproots or anchor roots that still hold at a depth of 9 to 19 inches. To lift the tree out of the hole, grasp it at the base of the trunk, close to the soil line.
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